Cruella de Vil Makeup Tutorial

I think all Villains are wickedly wonderful, and I couldn’t possibly pick a favourite. That said, Cruella’s look is one of the most coveted. While I prefer faux fur to dalmation, myself, I can’t argue that Cruella’s brow game is “en pointe” and her crisp red lip is highly sought after! NARS Cosmetics even created a lipstick shade in her name! (Can you guess what we used on Veruschka’s lips for this look?) It wasn’t hard to create a glamorous look for this villain, and on Veruschka’s pretty features, it was as easy as painting by number!

THE EYES

This villain’s muted green lids needed a trendy update. Luckily, bright greens are a hot eye shadow colour at the moment, and pair beautifully with a vampy red lip.

  1. As always, I primed the eyelids with an eye shadow primer from lash line to brow bone to ensure bold colour pay off and keep the eye makeup from creasing.
  2. I then swept a base shadow in a similar shade to Veruschka’s natural skin tone all over the eye to make blending a breeze!
  3. To set the stage for this alluring eye look, I sculpted Veruschka’s crease to make her eyes appear more deep set. I started with a medium brown tone, carrying the colour up to her orbital bone and blending away and hard edges.
  4. To further define the crease, I added a black shadow with a detail brush. I blended the black shadow with the brown along the top edge, but left the bottom edge of the crease crisp and defined. This technique really gives the crease a “carved out” look which is perfect to mimic Cruella’s heavy lidded, seductive gaze.
  5. Before adding the electric green shadow on the lid, I coloured it in with an eyeliner pencil to help the pigment of the shadow adhere. I used the Urban Decay 24/7 eyeliner pencil in “Freak (a lime yellow-green), being careful to keep the edge of the black shadow above nice and clean.
  6. I used a combination of the pressed pigments, “Thrash” and “Freak” from Urban Decay’s Electric Palette on Veruschka’s lids to achieve the bold green shade. When working with pigments, it is essential to use a base (like the eyeliner I used in the step above) to help the product adhere to the eyelid. I find a pressing or patting motion works well to ensure even colour saturation.
  7. I lined the top and bottom waterline with a black eyeliner pencil, and smoked out the lower lash line with black shadow for that sexy, smoldering effect.
  8. I finished the eye look with a modern “flicked” liquid eyeliner on the top lash line. To top it off, I chose lashes for Veruschka’s look that also flared out at the edges to add drama while complimenting the shape of the eye shadow.

THE COMPLEXION

I have to say, when it comes to complexion, I’m a full-coverage kind of gal. But as a makeup artist, I know that airbrush foundation photographs best.

  1. I always prep the skin with a moisturizer before applying any foundation to ensure smooth application.
  2. I followed the moisturizer with a hydrating primer and let it soak in for a full minute.
  3. Because the coverage of airbrush makeup is more lightweight, I like to use a concealer first in any areas that require additional coverage. I used a brightener under the eyes to colour correct any darkness, and a tiny bit of a cream concealer around the nose to hide redness.
  4. Many women require the most coverage in the center of the face, so that’s where I start with the airbrush. I hold the machine at arm’s length from my client and spray in circular motions until desired coverage is achieved.
  5. I always finish with a translucent setting powder to prolong the wear of the makeup and minimize any texture on the skin.

 

THE CONTOUR

Cruella’a razor-sharp cheek bones are a sight to be seen! I set out to give Veruschka glamorous, defined bone structure, while minimizing the risk to society (death by cheekbone).

  1. I used a cool toned contouring powder to mimic the look of a shadow. I often feel my client’s bone structure before I start to contour, as it isn’t always prominent. I like to place my brush right under the cheekbone at the hairline and blend the product upwards to create lift. I stop the contour in line with the arch of the brow for the most natural effect.
  2. I sharpened up Veruschka’s cheekbones by taking a matte highlight powder on a latex makeup sponge and sweeping the product along the bottom of the contour. This cleans up and defines any over blended edges for a dramatic, sculpted result.
  3. I also took the contour colour around the hairline on the forehead, along the jawline and down onto the neck to blend. Contouring the perimeter of the face not only enhances the natural bone structure, but also adds warmth to the overall complexion. It keeps the cheekbone contour from appearing too stark against the skin.
  4. When you think “glamour”, you might think of a red lip, or dramatic lashes, but for me, the epitome of a glamorous makeup look is the blush. When it comes to blush, a little goes a long way. I dusted a small amount of peachy/ pink powder onto the apples of Veruschka’s cheeks, blending backwards towards the hairline to create a lifted effect.

 

THE DETAILS

  1. No villain is complete with out fierce and fabulous brows to frame their face. While Cruella sports super high, swooping curves atop her brow bone, I chose to give Veruschka a more alluring arch. When creating a higher arch than your natural or existing shape, it’s best to build volume from the top of the arch. Using a brow pencil, I make a mark above the brow, angling from the nose, through the pupil of the eye. From this point, I connect the tail and the front of the brow to get the shape and then fill in with brow powder.
  2. NARS Cosmetics’ Cruella lip pencil is one of my favourite red lipsticks. Of course, we had to use this shade on Veruschka to top off her character’s look. I used a red lip liner first to define the lips, and filled in the lip with the NARS pencil. I blotted the colour with a tissue, powdered the lip with a translucent powder, and then applied a second coat of lipstick to ensure maximum wear.
  3. To keep Veruschka’s look in place, I finished her makeup off with a generous mist of finishing spray.

What I love most about makeup is its amazing transformative power. Using products that many of us may already have in our makeup arsenal, anyone can go from every day exquisite to totally dazzling drama. It’s so much fun to pretend to be someone else for a day, and what a better time than Halloween? I think there is a movie villain in all of us, waiting to show her glamorous self. Why not try a new shade of lipstick, some false lashes, or even Face Lace to bring that character to life? I believe that beauty is everywhere, and I hope my makeup tips and tricks can help you bring a touch of glam to your Halloween look this year!

Ursula Makeup Tutorial

I think all movie Villains have some serious makeup merit, however, I’ve always held Ursula’s fierce face in high regard. Her character was inspired by the infamous 80’s drag queen, Divine, and I couldn’t resist the chance to experiment with one of my favourite makeup styles. If I may offer a word of caution to those who may have never tried it; drag makeup is extremely involved and time consuming. All hail the queens supreme who spend hours doing up their drag-a-licious looks on the regular!

Although this makeup could absolutely be simplified, I really wanted to pay homage to Ursula’s over-the-top character with makeup that was just that. For those pressed for time, I would suggest focusing on one feature, like the eyes or contour, to bring your Ursula character to life in only a moment or two.

THE BROWS

First things first, even the most blessed among us don’t naturally grow arches like Ursula’s.  I COULD write a lengthy tutorial on how to block out your brows, or I could just direct you to this hilarious, yet informative YouTube video – the very same one I watched the first time I tried this difficult-to-master technique. Blocking out your brows can be a great “FX” addition to many Halloween costumes, and some key things to remember are:

  1. Use lots of glue. Don’t be shy. And get the purple kind.
  2. It doesn’t matter how thick your brows are. You can do this. Very hairy men do this. It just takes time.
  3. Patience is a virtue. It usually takes me at least 20 minutes to do this step. It is essential for the glue to dry completely between layers.
  4. Brush the brow hairs in the direction that they grow, as opposed to brushing them all upwards.
  5. Once your brow hairs are glued down, it’s a good idea to use an orange colour corrector before trying to cover them. This is great for colour- correcting any type of facial hair, as it cancels out any bluish- black tones.
  6. Use a pan stick/ pan-cake makeup, or the thickest you have, to cover the area. I used Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer and patted it over the brow area for the most opaque result.

Don’t forget to set the area with a translucent powder before moving on to the next step!

 

THE EYES

When creating an eye look for drag makeup, keep in mind that you’re trying to create a completely different eye shape, and it’s a dramatic one! Drag makeup is all about manipulating your face shape and becoming a character. For this look, I created a new “crease” and “lid” using cream products. By blocking out the brows, we’ve created lots of space for Ursula’s characteristic extreme eyeshadow.

  1. To define a new crease that was similar to Ursula’s fierce, queenly eye shape, I mixed colours from the Make
    Up Forever 12 Flash Colour Case to create a deep purple shade. I used the creamy colour to draw a swooping shape that started at the top of the nasal bridge.
  2. From there, I faded the colour upwards with synthetic brushes in a gradient from deep purple to white. I took the colour fairly high onto the forehead, stopping where I planned to create a new pair of eyebrows later on. I used cream colour for this and set it afterwards with eyeshadow.
  3. I used a white shadow pencil to map out the new lid space, stopping at my natural crease. I pressed an iridescent white shadow over top to add shimmer.
  4. I then filled in my mobile lid completely with black cream shadow to look like liner, effectively defining three new planes of the eye. I extended the black onto the temple to create an elongated winged shape, mirroring the swoop I created earlier in the “crease”. I set this with a black eyeshadow to keep the cream colour from transferring onto the white shadow above.
  5. I dragged the black cream colour down from the corner of my top lash line to open up the inner corner of my eye. From the point of the inner corner, I carried the cream product about a third of the way under my eye before joining it up with my natural lash line. I then filled this space in with white to create a new “inner corner” and the illusion of a larger eye.
  6. I lined the rest of the lower lash line with a black liner and connected it to the outside corner of the wing. I used a deep plum shadow to smoke out the lower lash line, building up a fairly thick saturation of colour under the eye.

 

THE CONTOUR

Though the eyes played a major role in this look, the key to drag makeup is the extreme contour. I also used the contour step to tie more purple into the look without painting my entire face.

  1. I used a cream foundation base in my natural colour all over the face before applying cream contour.
  2. I then highlighted the area under my eyes, through the center of my face and on top of my cheek bones with the white shade in the Make Up Forever 12 Flash Colour Case.
  3. I used the “baking technique” to make these areas stand out even more by pressing an excessive amount of translucent powder into the cream makeup and dusting it away later on.
  4. I contoured my cheeks by mixing Flash Colours to create a purple shade. Typically, when I contour for drag makeup, I create a rounder shape and bring the colour closer to the mouth to emphasize a pouty lip. Ursula has a fuller face, so I didn’t want to sculpt away volume in my cheeks, while still accentuating the cheekbone.
  5. I blended the cheek contour upwards into the highlight shade, but left a crisp line along the bottom. Drag makeup is a form of theater makeup. As such, you want to avoid blending away the definition you’ve created.
  6. I contoured the bridge of my nose with a thin brush to create a slim shape and rounded tip. I also contoured the hairline and jawline, and brought some of the purple colour down onto the neck.
  7. I set the contoured areas with a purple eyeshadow to keep the product in place, and finished off the highlight with a touch of iridescent powder.

THE DETAILS

  1. I wanted to create a voluptuous pout for this makeup, so I over drew my lips outside the natural lip line using a dark purple eyeliner. To create an ombre effect, I filled in the entire lip with the eyeliner. I then added a lighter berry lipstick just to the center, using a lip brush to blend the two shades just at the edges.
  2. Rather than go for the pointed high arches, I chose to match my brow shape to my “Film Noir”- esque wig. I went for a 1920s style rounded shape, angling the brows downwards in the front for a sinister look. I kept the brows slim and precise using a black liquid liner pen.

  3. For truly extravagant glamour, I wore a pair of plush feathery lashes from Shu Umera. I also added a pair of spiky bottom lashes to my lower lash line for maximum drama.

Drag style makeup involves many layers of cream product, so setting with a powder is key for maximum wear. When doing makeup for an occasion or event, I use a “setting sandwich technique”. I mist a generous amount of setting spray over the makeup and wait for it to dry completely. Then I powder over top of the setting spray with a translucent powder, and mist the makeup a second time to lock it in place. Try this budge proof technique for Halloween makeup that won’t move until YOU decide to take it off! Happy Haunting!

 

Captain Hook Makeup Tutorial

I was really excited to create a “pretty pirate” look for Kassy when I found out which character she would be portraying. I hear a lot of repeat requests when it comes to Halloween makeup, but I can’t say that a glamorous Captain Hook is one of them. Because this character goes against the grain, so to speak, I wanted to challenge some makeup myths as well. Everyone has heard that they shouldn’t wear a dramatic eye and a dramatic lip together, and who better than a pirate to break the age old makeup rule?

THE EYES

I know black eyeshadow can be intimidating, but Halloween is not the time to be shy! Captain Hook has some serious attitude, and I wanted her smoky eye to be dark and hazy.

  1. As always, I started with an eyeshadow primer from lashline to browbone to keep the eyeshadow in place. Because I was working with a creamier base, I expected some creasing, but I actually think this adds to the grungy and smoky effect.
  2. I laid down a black Kajal liner as a base for the smoky eye. I chose the YSL Couture Kajal liner because it has a fat tip and is so easy to blend. I used the side of the pencil to get maximum coverage from Kassy’s lash line to her crease, and softly blended the colour upwards onto her orbital bone.
  3. I also carried the liner under the lower lash line, all the way into the inner corner and added it into the top and bottom waterline for extra blackness. I buffed the liner out with a precision smudge brush to create a round shape. It’s okay if your liner isn’t perfectly straight, that’s what a smoky eye is all about. You want the edges to be smudgy and hazy.
  4. To keep the eyes blended and beautiful, I used my favourite trick. I took a little bit of a warm coloured bronzer on my blending brush and swept it through the crease and under the eye in a circular motion, creating a halo effect. This not only helps break up the black, but also creates a more cohesive look by warming up this seriously smoky eye.
  5. I patted the blackest black shadow I know of, Saucebox “Black Widow” eyeshadow, on top of the eye with the bristles of my brush pointing downwards. This technique prevents fall out and ensures maximum colour payoff.
  6. After doing one last sweep with a clean blending brush to ensure any harsh lines were buffed away, I finished the lashes with a coat of super- black mascara.

 

THE COMPLEXION

I have to say, when it comes to complexion, I’m a full-coverage kind of gal. But as a makeup artist, I know that airbrush foundation photographs best.

  1. I always prep the skin with a moisturizer before applying any foundation. Kassy was a little on the drier side, so I made sure to really work the product into the skin, and even used a few drops of a beauty oil to help the skincare absorb.
  2. I followed the moisturizer with a hydrating primer and let it soak in for a full minute.
  3. Because the coverage of airbrush makeup is more lightweight, I like to use a concealer first in any areas that require additional coverage. I used a brightener under the eyes to colour correct any darkness, and a tiny bit of a cream concealer around the nose to hide redness.
  4. Many women require the most coverage in the center of the face, so that’s where I start with the airbrush. I hold the machine at arm’s length from my client and spray in circular motions until desired coverage is achieved.
  5. I always finish with a translucent setting powder to prolong the wear of the makeup and minimize any texture.

Captain Hook doesn’t strike me as a modest character, so I skipped blush on Kassy to give her a more rebellious look. We focused on contour to give her face shape and definition.

  1. I used a cool toned contour powder to mimic the look of a shadow. To enhance Kassy’s cheekbones, I started at the top of her ear and blended the colour towards the corner of her mouth. I always start way back in the hairline with my brush to ensure a diffused look.
  2. I also took the contour colour around the hairline on the forehead, and just at the edges of Kassy’s jawline to define her bone structure. When I contour these areas, I like to use a fluffier brush for a more transparent application of product.
  3. I sharpened up my cheekbone contour by dusting a matte highlight powder along the bottom edge of the contour. After letting it set for a moment or two, I dust away any excess to reveal a seriously sharp, dramatic cheek bone.
  4. On a kabuki brush, I picked up a little of the same bronzer shade I used to warm up Kassy’s smoky eye. I dusted the bronzer on the high points of her face to add a little warmth, without making her look too “innocent”.

 

THE DETAILS

  1. Every villain (or villainess) needs a bold brow. Kassy already had a great shape going, and I played up her arches with a dark brow powder to match her black wig. I always set the brows with a wax or gel to keep any rogue hairs in place.
  2. From the moment I found out Kassy was playing Captain Hook, I knew we had to dress her up in a red lip. I chose a matte shade that was a little on the warmer side to tie in with the bronzer. I started with a lip primer to keep the colour in place. I then defined her perfect lip shape with a liner and buffed it out using a lip brush so it wouldn’t appear too harsh. I finished with the lipstick to give her a saturated, vampy pout.
  3. To give Captain Hook a glamorous twist, we added some “Face Lace” to one eye in place of an eye patch. I trimmed the decal to suit Kassy’s eye shape and adhered it using a bit of clear eyelash glue.
  4. Glam makeup just isn’t glam enough without false lashes. To finish off Kassy’s look, we added a dramatic pair that weren’t too flared out at the ends. The shape of the lash should enhance, rather than distract from the eye look.

I always finish my makeup off with a generous spritz of finishing spray to keep the look in place all night! With a little compact powder in her “treasure chest” to touch up throughout the night, and of course, her signature red lipstick, this pirate was ready to party!