What We Do When You’re Not Looking

Are you curious about what we do before you show up to your photoshoot? Wonder no more, I will show you!

1. We Set Up Our Tools

When you show up to your shoot we want to be ready to fly! Making you wait around while we paw through our makeup just wastes your time and ours. We hook up our airbrush machine, and familiarize ourselves with the makeup and tools we will be using with you before you arrive.

 

2. We Test Our Props For Safety

We would never risk injury to anyone so we are typically quite sure of the safety of props before even we test them, but anytime we are using something new we have to be sure. Here is an example of Veruschka testing out our oversized present before we allowed our guest to sit on it.

3. We Set Up Our Location

Whether this is dressing our bedroom set for boudoir, or planning an outdoor photo session, we make sure everything is set up so you can just step in and have your photos taken. If we are doing multiple sets during a shoot, you may get to see us in action setting up a secondary set.

 

4. We Test The Practicality Of Movements

Some poses, movements, and props seem like a good idea until you try them out. Sometimes our bodies don’t move the way we think they can, and other times things can happen that you didn’t anticipate. This is why we test our ides before we try them with you!

5. We Test Our Lighting

This serves two purposes. It helps us double check that all of our equipment is working – occasionally technical glitches occur and can set us back a few minutes. Anything we can do to mitigate this kind of disruption is critical. The other reason we test our lighting is that sometimes we want to do something a little outside of the box, doing a test run helps us get our lighting just right so we have less fiddling around to do when we’re working with you!

6. We Check Our Locations

This is important if we are shooting on location or outdoors as opposed to in our Edmonton studio. We scan the location of choice, scout out a quiet area, looking for any garbage or debris that could ruin a photo, and we map out the best paths that avoid dog doodoo.

7. Practice Posing

We like to plan as much of a shoot as we can, including posing. While a lot of posing is done naturally, as well as tried and true poses, occasionally we like to test poses ourselves. We might be checking the comfort-ability, the feasibility, or just the aesthetics of a particular pose.

 

 

 

Newest Team Pink Member – Annie

Hair & Makeup Artist

We are so excited to welcome Annie to Team Pink! She is our extremely talented hairstylist and makeup artist. So if you’re getting a makeover before your photoshoot there is a good chance you will be making friends with this amazing woman.

With training in massage therapy and hairdressing, Annie is the perfect example of when creativity and passion collide. Her passion to help people feel confident is the driving force behind her creative aptitude. Every hairstyle and makeup application that she creates is done with the sole purpose of working with women to help them see their beauty inside and out.

When you book your shoot, go ahead and request Annie as your beauty guru.

Easy Ways To Wear My Top 3 Favourite Fall Colours

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You’ve surely noticed the colours I’m about to talk about popping up on social media, fashion magazines and runways this fall. I decided early on which colours were my favourites, and sure enough, those hues made it into Pantone’s Colour Trend Report for the season. Pantone is noted in the design industry as the “colour authority“. They predict and declare colour trends that designers then use to dictate their collections both seasonally and annually. My favourite way to incorporate seasonal colour trends into my wardrobe is through makeup. It’s a non-committal way to try something new, and definitely friendlier on the wallet than a designer piece. I’ll discuss my top 3 favourite trending colours below and some simple ways to incorporate them into your makeup looks this fall.

1. COBALT BLUE

Pantone has named this bold blue shade “Riverside” and calls it both “cool and calming” and “strong and stable” in their fall report. I’ve noticed this colour popping up since Spring, especially as a makeup trend. The hue definitely makes a statement, and I like to treat it as the focal point of my makeup. It’s easiest to wear as a statement liner. Many brands have come out with liquid liners in saturated shades, like cobalt blue, that make it easy to incorporate colour into your look. It looks great as a vibrant winged liner, but can also be worn on the lower lash line with a black liner on top. By keeping everything else neutral, a pop of blue can really stand on its own. This particular shade is flattering on all skin tones and eye colours, but I especially love it to compliment brown eyes. The blue really brings out the richness and depth in dark eyes and makes them stand out. If you’d like to try something different and fun, check out my graphic liner tutorial using a trendy cobalt blue shade.

2. BURGUNDY

Though the trending Pantone shade, “Aurora Red“, is a little brighter than what you might typically call burgundy, no other colour brings fall more to my mind than a rich, deep red. The Pantone Colour Report says that this shade is “exciting and dynamic and breeds unmistakable confidence”. I love the way that wearing a red lip makes me feel like I could conquer the world with one swipe of lipstick! When wearing this deeper, more sensual shade of red, be sure to pare down the rest of your makeup. This shade demands to be the focal point of your look, and eye makeup that is too dark can compete with a bold lip. Crisp edges are key when rocking a dramatic lip colour, so take your time when applying your lipstick. A lip liner can really help to keep your lines clean and prevent the colour from feathering throughout the day. If long wear is a concern for you, opt for a liquid lipstick instead of a traditional cream formula. Because this colour is so bold, it’s best to choose a matte formula to keep your lip look modern and on trend. Check out our previous blog post to learn my tips & tricks when it comes to applying a bold lip!

3. BURNT ORANGE

I’ve recently seen this burnt orange colour that Pantone is calling “Potter’s Clay” pop up in eye shadow palettes, as blushes, lipsticks and even eyeliners. This Pantone dubbed shade with “real substance and a strong foundation” is what I like to call a cheater neutral. It’s easy to wear and to pair with other colours, but it’s different enough from your standard “50 shades of brown”. It’s especially flattering on those with a golden undertone, but cool/pink or neutral tones can also wear it to add warmth to their skin. It will make your blue eyes pop and will make green eyes look especially emerald, but I think this shade could be worn by anyone. It’s so easy to wear, in fact, that I recommend trying burnt orange as a monochromatic makeup look. A monochromatic look is achieved by using different shades of the same hue.

I’ll be posting a series on my instagram @alyssamakeupart demonstrating these trending colours in action if you’re interested in following along!

 

Colour trends are always exciting, and it can be fun to try something new – but I believe that what ever makes you feel most beautiful will always be in fashion!

 

Foundation 101: Staying Flawless

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Many foundations on the market advertise all day wear, yet the number one complaint I hear from clients is that their foundation just doesn’t last. There is no reason why your foundation shouldn’t last throughout the day, just follow few simple steps. Keep on reading if you want flawless foundation around the clock!

First things first, much like your skin care regime, you have to think of your foundation as a ROUTINE. There are several steps to achieving a flawless complexion that lasts all day and a few products you’ll need that will work together to maximize wear.

Here’s what it takes to create a complete, long-lasting foundation routine:

Moisturizer

Use a moisturizer that is best suited for your skin type. If you’re going to be applying your makeup immediately after your skincare, opt for a formula that is lightweight and fast absorbing. Be sure to massage your moisturizer into the skin to help it penetrate and to boost circulation for plump, hydrated skin. This step will allow for your foundation to adhere to a smooth base. When the skin is hydrated, makeup will last longer and look better.

Primer

The main purpose of a primer is to help your makeup last longer. Primers act as a base for your foundation and often contain ingredients (like glycerin) that are tacky to help makeup stick & stay put. Primer also acts as a barrier between your skin and your makeup, which means that your skin shouldn’t affect the way your makeup wears. If you do have skin concerns that are likely to break down your foundation (such as the overproduction of oil), choose a primer that will help combat the issue (like a mattifying primer). Just like a primer for paint on the wall, foundation primer fills in nooks and crannies for a smooth result. If you have concerns with enlarged pores, scarring or fine lines, choose a primer with a silicon base to keep your makeup from settling into textured areas.

APPLICATION TIP: Make sure to work your primer in well with clean hands. Add extra primer where you find your makeup creases or breaks down through out the day, but remember to start with a small amount of product. If you use too much, or apply your foundation before your primer has a chance to absorb, it can ball up and create texture underneath your makeup. As a best practice, I like to wait at least 60 seconds after priming the face before I apply foundation.

Foundation

As a general rule, the more pigment a product has, the longer it will last and, unfortunately, pigment is a costly ingredient. This doesn’t mean that expensive foundations are necessarily better, however, higher quality ingredients = better performance. This is not to say that you can’t make a drug store foundation last all day. If you have a great foundation routine, getting 6-8 hours of wear from any foundation should be no problem. If you do need your makeup to stay on longer, say for a special event, you may want to opt for a higher end formulation.

APPLICATION TIP: When it comes to foundation, the key to application is to work in light layers. If you swipe your foundation on in a very thick layer, it is more likely to slide off of the skin. Between each layer of coverage, allow your makeup to dry and become tacky so that the next layer will adhere.

A tool to apply foundation with, such as a brush or sponge – I’m not opposed to using fingertips to apply foundation, but they can deposit a lot of product. As I mentioned, a thick layer of foundation is apt to slide off of the skin, and I find a brush or blending sponge will deposit just the right amount. Avoid using a wiping motion when applying foundation, as you’re not really depositing product this way, simply moving it around. The best application technique for any skin type, in my experience, is a stippling motion. Tap your foundation into your skin to marry the texture of your makeup and primer together, without lifting any product. Stippling will also give the smoothest result over pores and texture, and is the ideal technique for oily skin types.

APPLICATION TIP: Starting at the center of your face, work your foundation outwards towards your jawline. The jaw area is what I call the “transfer zone”, where the collar of your shirt can rub and where we’re likely to touch our skin. Having less makeup in this area makes transfer less likely and for most of us, the center of the face is where we need the most coverage anyhow.

Setting Powder

It’s a simple truth that your makeup will last longer when you use a powder over top. Powdering your foundation will set it in place and keep it from transferring onto your clothes, phone etc. throughout the day. Don’t worry that your foundation will look cake-y or dry when using a powder. Opt for a translucent option with finely milled powders for the most natural result.

APPLICATION TIP: You’ll want to avoid sweeping your powder over a wet liquid foundation, as this will only serve to move your makeup around, especially if you have oily skin. To truly SET your foundation, use the “press and roll” method. Press your powder into your foundation and roll your brush or sponge to mesh the two textures together without disturbing your makeup. Touch your skin with clean hands once you have applied your setting powder. Your skin should feel velvety smooth to the touch and there shouldn’t be any tacky spots. Start with the smallest amount of product (I usually use the residue that’s left in the lid when I open it up) and build in areas where foundation is still tacky or is likely to move around.

Setting Spray

For the ultimate long wear, mist your makeup with a setting spray at the end of your routine.Think of setting spray as hairspray for your face. Basically, it creates a film over your makeup (though obviously gentler and more flexible than hairspray) to defend against humidity and oil. You may not need to use a setting spray every day, but it is a must-have product for hot weather, a night out, or a special occasion.

APPLICATION TIP: Be sure to hold your setting spray at arms length. If you spray your product too close to your face, you could end up with water droplets on top of your foundation that will break it down! Try misting your setting spray in a T or X shape for even application.

 

It may seem like a lot of work, but the right techniques and products will keep your foundation flawless all day and all night!

IMATS Vancouver

Recently our makeup artist, Alyssa Steinhubl, made the trek to Vancouver to the International Makeup Artists Trade Show! Her mission was to stock up the All Things Pink Photography studio makeup kit, and boy did she have fun shopping for all of you! Take a look at some of the photos she took from her trip. If you would like to read more about her trip, head over to her website.

With a boudoir, pin-up or maternity photoshoot and makeover booked with us, you can check out her amazing and fabulous new finds!

HOW TO: Bold Summer Lips

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Before
Perfecy Summer Lip- Enhance Step
After

There are still a few weeks of summer left and there’s still time to rock a daring, saturated lip colour before the leaves start to fall. As much as I love the deep, rich hues that come with the transition to cooler days, I find myself reaching for the punchiest, most vibrant hues lately to send off the summer with a bang. There are a few tips and tricks I’d like to share with you when it comes to rocking a bold lip. The basic principles are the same for any lip colour, and these steps will take you seamlessly into the next season as well!

Step 1: DON’T FORGET TO PREP

Though I personally prefer a juicy, glossy pout in the summertime, matte lipstick continues to trend. These formulas highlight texture on the lip and can be dehydrating. If you’re going to wear a vibrant lip, you’ll want it to look as smooth as possible. Nobody wants to look at a bright red, flaky, peeling lip, now do they? Not to mention a matte lipstick can be uncomfortable if you’re lips aren’t properly hydrated. When I’m prepping for a bold lip, I like to start with a scrub to get rid of any flaky texture. You can purchase a lip scrub almost anywhere now, but they’re also really easy to make yourself at home and only require a few ingredients. Here’s what you’ll need for your own DIY lip scrub –

  • 1 part brown sugar
  • 1 part olive or coconut oil
  • a dollop of honey

Massage the mixture GENTLY onto the lips. You may find that you need more vigorous scrubbing action to remove the dry skin, but it’s always best to start slow and work your way up. I like to leave the mixture on my lips for a few minutes to let the oil & sugars work their magic. (Sugar is a natural humectant and will help to draw moisture into the lips). Then, you can simply tissue or rinse the scrub away to reveal a perfectly smooth pout. Finish off with your favourite light weight lip balm to hydrate the lips and seal in moisture.

Sugar Scrub
Sugar Scrub

Step 2: LINE & DEFINE

Lip liner is an absolute must when braving a bold lip. It keeps the lip looking crisp and defined and it will keep the colour from feathering or running throughout the day. Lip liner can also be used to correct asymmetry in the lips, or add volume. I recommend a close colour match when it comes to liner – but if you’re not confident in your lip lining skills, you can always opt for a universal liner in a clear shade that will act as a barrier and primer for your lipstick.

When lining the lips, I like to start at the center of the cupid’s bow and then move to the center of the bottom lip to ensure symmetry. Try to work in swift long strokes rather than short and sketchy. You want the lip line to look as smooth as possible. When lining the corners of the lip, be sure to work from the corner upwards rather that downwards towards the corner. This will give you the fullest looking pout. You may prefer to fill the lips in entirely with a liner for the longest wear. I typically feather the liner onto the rest of the lip with a lip brush to mesh the texture of the liner with the lip and avoid a harsh looking border.

Perfect Summer Lip - Line Step-Edit

 

 

 

 

Step 3: FILL IN

Using a lip brush, use cross hatching motions to marry the texture of the lip product with the texture of your lips. This will give you the least “garish” result and will help the product last longer on the lips. I prefer to achieve opacity in thin layers to avoid a sticky & uncomfortable build up of product. I then tend to blot the lips with a brush or thin tissue to remove any excess.

Perfect Summer Lip - Fill Step-Edit

 

 

 

 

Step 4: ENHANCE

Now it’s time to play. I like to enhance my lips by adding a luminizer to the cupid’s bow. You can also add some luminizer to the center of your pout to create interest and volume. As I mentioned, I tend to prefer a shinier finish in the summer time. Add a touch of gloss in a clear or matching shade just to the center of the lips where it will catch the light and make your lips look fuller. I usually grab a highlighting or luminizing pen like the Yves St Laurent Touche Eclat radiance pen and perfect the lip line with it for an ultra crisp finish.

Perfecy Summer Lip- Enhance Step

 

 

 

 

Don’t forget to tuck your lipstick into your handbag for touch ups on the go! Make the most of these last few sunny weeks by rocking an adventurous new shade!

 

Cruella de Vil Makeup Tutorial

I think all Villains are wickedly wonderful, and I couldn’t possibly pick a favourite. That said, Cruella’s look is one of the most coveted. While I prefer faux fur to dalmation, myself, I can’t argue that Cruella’s brow game is “en pointe” and her crisp red lip is highly sought after! NARS Cosmetics even created a lipstick shade in her name! (Can you guess what we used on Veruschka’s lips for this look?) It wasn’t hard to create a glamorous look for this villain, and on Veruschka’s pretty features, it was as easy as painting by number!

THE EYES

This villain’s muted green lids needed a trendy update. Luckily, bright greens are a hot eye shadow colour at the moment, and pair beautifully with a vampy red lip.

  1. As always, I primed the eyelids with an eye shadow primer from lash line to brow bone to ensure bold colour pay off and keep the eye makeup from creasing.
  2. I then swept a base shadow in a similar shade to Veruschka’s natural skin tone all over the eye to make blending a breeze!
  3. To set the stage for this alluring eye look, I sculpted Veruschka’s crease to make her eyes appear more deep set. I started with a medium brown tone, carrying the colour up to her orbital bone and blending away and hard edges.
  4. To further define the crease, I added a black shadow with a detail brush. I blended the black shadow with the brown along the top edge, but left the bottom edge of the crease crisp and defined. This technique really gives the crease a “carved out” look which is perfect to mimic Cruella’s heavy lidded, seductive gaze.
  5. Before adding the electric green shadow on the lid, I coloured it in with an eyeliner pencil to help the pigment of the shadow adhere. I used the Urban Decay 24/7 eyeliner pencil in “Freak (a lime yellow-green), being careful to keep the edge of the black shadow above nice and clean.
  6. I used a combination of the pressed pigments, “Thrash” and “Freak” from Urban Decay’s Electric Palette on Veruschka’s lids to achieve the bold green shade. When working with pigments, it is essential to use a base (like the eyeliner I used in the step above) to help the product adhere to the eyelid. I find a pressing or patting motion works well to ensure even colour saturation.
  7. I lined the top and bottom waterline with a black eyeliner pencil, and smoked out the lower lash line with black shadow for that sexy, smoldering effect.
  8. I finished the eye look with a modern “flicked” liquid eyeliner on the top lash line. To top it off, I chose lashes for Veruschka’s look that also flared out at the edges to add drama while complimenting the shape of the eye shadow.

THE COMPLEXION

I have to say, when it comes to complexion, I’m a full-coverage kind of gal. But as a makeup artist, I know that airbrush foundation photographs best.

  1. I always prep the skin with a moisturizer before applying any foundation to ensure smooth application.
  2. I followed the moisturizer with a hydrating primer and let it soak in for a full minute.
  3. Because the coverage of airbrush makeup is more lightweight, I like to use a concealer first in any areas that require additional coverage. I used a brightener under the eyes to colour correct any darkness, and a tiny bit of a cream concealer around the nose to hide redness.
  4. Many women require the most coverage in the center of the face, so that’s where I start with the airbrush. I hold the machine at arm’s length from my client and spray in circular motions until desired coverage is achieved.
  5. I always finish with a translucent setting powder to prolong the wear of the makeup and minimize any texture on the skin.

 

THE CONTOUR

Cruella’a razor-sharp cheek bones are a sight to be seen! I set out to give Veruschka glamorous, defined bone structure, while minimizing the risk to society (death by cheekbone).

  1. I used a cool toned contouring powder to mimic the look of a shadow. I often feel my client’s bone structure before I start to contour, as it isn’t always prominent. I like to place my brush right under the cheekbone at the hairline and blend the product upwards to create lift. I stop the contour in line with the arch of the brow for the most natural effect.
  2. I sharpened up Veruschka’s cheekbones by taking a matte highlight powder on a latex makeup sponge and sweeping the product along the bottom of the contour. This cleans up and defines any over blended edges for a dramatic, sculpted result.
  3. I also took the contour colour around the hairline on the forehead, along the jawline and down onto the neck to blend. Contouring the perimeter of the face not only enhances the natural bone structure, but also adds warmth to the overall complexion. It keeps the cheekbone contour from appearing too stark against the skin.
  4. When you think “glamour”, you might think of a red lip, or dramatic lashes, but for me, the epitome of a glamorous makeup look is the blush. When it comes to blush, a little goes a long way. I dusted a small amount of peachy/ pink powder onto the apples of Veruschka’s cheeks, blending backwards towards the hairline to create a lifted effect.

 

THE DETAILS

  1. No villain is complete with out fierce and fabulous brows to frame their face. While Cruella sports super high, swooping curves atop her brow bone, I chose to give Veruschka a more alluring arch. When creating a higher arch than your natural or existing shape, it’s best to build volume from the top of the arch. Using a brow pencil, I make a mark above the brow, angling from the nose, through the pupil of the eye. From this point, I connect the tail and the front of the brow to get the shape and then fill in with brow powder.
  2. NARS Cosmetics’ Cruella lip pencil is one of my favourite red lipsticks. Of course, we had to use this shade on Veruschka to top off her character’s look. I used a red lip liner first to define the lips, and filled in the lip with the NARS pencil. I blotted the colour with a tissue, powdered the lip with a translucent powder, and then applied a second coat of lipstick to ensure maximum wear.
  3. To keep Veruschka’s look in place, I finished her makeup off with a generous mist of finishing spray.

What I love most about makeup is its amazing transformative power. Using products that many of us may already have in our makeup arsenal, anyone can go from every day exquisite to totally dazzling drama. It’s so much fun to pretend to be someone else for a day, and what a better time than Halloween? I think there is a movie villain in all of us, waiting to show her glamorous self. Why not try a new shade of lipstick, some false lashes, or even Face Lace to bring that character to life? I believe that beauty is everywhere, and I hope my makeup tips and tricks can help you bring a touch of glam to your Halloween look this year!

Ursula Makeup Tutorial

I think all movie Villains have some serious makeup merit, however, I’ve always held Ursula’s fierce face in high regard. Her character was inspired by the infamous 80’s drag queen, Divine, and I couldn’t resist the chance to experiment with one of my favourite makeup styles. If I may offer a word of caution to those who may have never tried it; drag makeup is extremely involved and time consuming. All hail the queens supreme who spend hours doing up their drag-a-licious looks on the regular!

Although this makeup could absolutely be simplified, I really wanted to pay homage to Ursula’s over-the-top character with makeup that was just that. For those pressed for time, I would suggest focusing on one feature, like the eyes or contour, to bring your Ursula character to life in only a moment or two.

THE BROWS

First things first, even the most blessed among us don’t naturally grow arches like Ursula’s.  I COULD write a lengthy tutorial on how to block out your brows, or I could just direct you to this hilarious, yet informative YouTube video – the very same one I watched the first time I tried this difficult-to-master technique. Blocking out your brows can be a great “FX” addition to many Halloween costumes, and some key things to remember are:

  1. Use lots of glue. Don’t be shy. And get the purple kind.
  2. It doesn’t matter how thick your brows are. You can do this. Very hairy men do this. It just takes time.
  3. Patience is a virtue. It usually takes me at least 20 minutes to do this step. It is essential for the glue to dry completely between layers.
  4. Brush the brow hairs in the direction that they grow, as opposed to brushing them all upwards.
  5. Once your brow hairs are glued down, it’s a good idea to use an orange colour corrector before trying to cover them. This is great for colour- correcting any type of facial hair, as it cancels out any bluish- black tones.
  6. Use a pan stick/ pan-cake makeup, or the thickest you have, to cover the area. I used Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer and patted it over the brow area for the most opaque result.

Don’t forget to set the area with a translucent powder before moving on to the next step!

 

THE EYES

When creating an eye look for drag makeup, keep in mind that you’re trying to create a completely different eye shape, and it’s a dramatic one! Drag makeup is all about manipulating your face shape and becoming a character. For this look, I created a new “crease” and “lid” using cream products. By blocking out the brows, we’ve created lots of space for Ursula’s characteristic extreme eyeshadow.

  1. To define a new crease that was similar to Ursula’s fierce, queenly eye shape, I mixed colours from the Make
    Up Forever 12 Flash Colour Case to create a deep purple shade. I used the creamy colour to draw a swooping shape that started at the top of the nasal bridge.
  2. From there, I faded the colour upwards with synthetic brushes in a gradient from deep purple to white. I took the colour fairly high onto the forehead, stopping where I planned to create a new pair of eyebrows later on. I used cream colour for this and set it afterwards with eyeshadow.
  3. I used a white shadow pencil to map out the new lid space, stopping at my natural crease. I pressed an iridescent white shadow over top to add shimmer.
  4. I then filled in my mobile lid completely with black cream shadow to look like liner, effectively defining three new planes of the eye. I extended the black onto the temple to create an elongated winged shape, mirroring the swoop I created earlier in the “crease”. I set this with a black eyeshadow to keep the cream colour from transferring onto the white shadow above.
  5. I dragged the black cream colour down from the corner of my top lash line to open up the inner corner of my eye. From the point of the inner corner, I carried the cream product about a third of the way under my eye before joining it up with my natural lash line. I then filled this space in with white to create a new “inner corner” and the illusion of a larger eye.
  6. I lined the rest of the lower lash line with a black liner and connected it to the outside corner of the wing. I used a deep plum shadow to smoke out the lower lash line, building up a fairly thick saturation of colour under the eye.

 

THE CONTOUR

Though the eyes played a major role in this look, the key to drag makeup is the extreme contour. I also used the contour step to tie more purple into the look without painting my entire face.

  1. I used a cream foundation base in my natural colour all over the face before applying cream contour.
  2. I then highlighted the area under my eyes, through the center of my face and on top of my cheek bones with the white shade in the Make Up Forever 12 Flash Colour Case.
  3. I used the “baking technique” to make these areas stand out even more by pressing an excessive amount of translucent powder into the cream makeup and dusting it away later on.
  4. I contoured my cheeks by mixing Flash Colours to create a purple shade. Typically, when I contour for drag makeup, I create a rounder shape and bring the colour closer to the mouth to emphasize a pouty lip. Ursula has a fuller face, so I didn’t want to sculpt away volume in my cheeks, while still accentuating the cheekbone.
  5. I blended the cheek contour upwards into the highlight shade, but left a crisp line along the bottom. Drag makeup is a form of theater makeup. As such, you want to avoid blending away the definition you’ve created.
  6. I contoured the bridge of my nose with a thin brush to create a slim shape and rounded tip. I also contoured the hairline and jawline, and brought some of the purple colour down onto the neck.
  7. I set the contoured areas with a purple eyeshadow to keep the product in place, and finished off the highlight with a touch of iridescent powder.

THE DETAILS

  1. I wanted to create a voluptuous pout for this makeup, so I over drew my lips outside the natural lip line using a dark purple eyeliner. To create an ombre effect, I filled in the entire lip with the eyeliner. I then added a lighter berry lipstick just to the center, using a lip brush to blend the two shades just at the edges.
  2. Rather than go for the pointed high arches, I chose to match my brow shape to my “Film Noir”- esque wig. I went for a 1920s style rounded shape, angling the brows downwards in the front for a sinister look. I kept the brows slim and precise using a black liquid liner pen.

  3. For truly extravagant glamour, I wore a pair of plush feathery lashes from Shu Umera. I also added a pair of spiky bottom lashes to my lower lash line for maximum drama.

Drag style makeup involves many layers of cream product, so setting with a powder is key for maximum wear. When doing makeup for an occasion or event, I use a “setting sandwich technique”. I mist a generous amount of setting spray over the makeup and wait for it to dry completely. Then I powder over top of the setting spray with a translucent powder, and mist the makeup a second time to lock it in place. Try this budge proof technique for Halloween makeup that won’t move until YOU decide to take it off! Happy Haunting!

 

Captain Hook Makeup Tutorial

I was really excited to create a “pretty pirate” look for Kassy when I found out which character she would be portraying. I hear a lot of repeat requests when it comes to Halloween makeup, but I can’t say that a glamorous Captain Hook is one of them. Because this character goes against the grain, so to speak, I wanted to challenge some makeup myths as well. Everyone has heard that they shouldn’t wear a dramatic eye and a dramatic lip together, and who better than a pirate to break the age old makeup rule?

THE EYES

I know black eyeshadow can be intimidating, but Halloween is not the time to be shy! Captain Hook has some serious attitude, and I wanted her smoky eye to be dark and hazy.

  1. As always, I started with an eyeshadow primer from lashline to browbone to keep the eyeshadow in place. Because I was working with a creamier base, I expected some creasing, but I actually think this adds to the grungy and smoky effect.
  2. I laid down a black Kajal liner as a base for the smoky eye. I chose the YSL Couture Kajal liner because it has a fat tip and is so easy to blend. I used the side of the pencil to get maximum coverage from Kassy’s lash line to her crease, and softly blended the colour upwards onto her orbital bone.
  3. I also carried the liner under the lower lash line, all the way into the inner corner and added it into the top and bottom waterline for extra blackness. I buffed the liner out with a precision smudge brush to create a round shape. It’s okay if your liner isn’t perfectly straight, that’s what a smoky eye is all about. You want the edges to be smudgy and hazy.
  4. To keep the eyes blended and beautiful, I used my favourite trick. I took a little bit of a warm coloured bronzer on my blending brush and swept it through the crease and under the eye in a circular motion, creating a halo effect. This not only helps break up the black, but also creates a more cohesive look by warming up this seriously smoky eye.
  5. I patted the blackest black shadow I know of, Saucebox “Black Widow” eyeshadow, on top of the eye with the bristles of my brush pointing downwards. This technique prevents fall out and ensures maximum colour payoff.
  6. After doing one last sweep with a clean blending brush to ensure any harsh lines were buffed away, I finished the lashes with a coat of super- black mascara.

 

THE COMPLEXION

I have to say, when it comes to complexion, I’m a full-coverage kind of gal. But as a makeup artist, I know that airbrush foundation photographs best.

  1. I always prep the skin with a moisturizer before applying any foundation. Kassy was a little on the drier side, so I made sure to really work the product into the skin, and even used a few drops of a beauty oil to help the skincare absorb.
  2. I followed the moisturizer with a hydrating primer and let it soak in for a full minute.
  3. Because the coverage of airbrush makeup is more lightweight, I like to use a concealer first in any areas that require additional coverage. I used a brightener under the eyes to colour correct any darkness, and a tiny bit of a cream concealer around the nose to hide redness.
  4. Many women require the most coverage in the center of the face, so that’s where I start with the airbrush. I hold the machine at arm’s length from my client and spray in circular motions until desired coverage is achieved.
  5. I always finish with a translucent setting powder to prolong the wear of the makeup and minimize any texture.

Captain Hook doesn’t strike me as a modest character, so I skipped blush on Kassy to give her a more rebellious look. We focused on contour to give her face shape and definition.

  1. I used a cool toned contour powder to mimic the look of a shadow. To enhance Kassy’s cheekbones, I started at the top of her ear and blended the colour towards the corner of her mouth. I always start way back in the hairline with my brush to ensure a diffused look.
  2. I also took the contour colour around the hairline on the forehead, and just at the edges of Kassy’s jawline to define her bone structure. When I contour these areas, I like to use a fluffier brush for a more transparent application of product.
  3. I sharpened up my cheekbone contour by dusting a matte highlight powder along the bottom edge of the contour. After letting it set for a moment or two, I dust away any excess to reveal a seriously sharp, dramatic cheek bone.
  4. On a kabuki brush, I picked up a little of the same bronzer shade I used to warm up Kassy’s smoky eye. I dusted the bronzer on the high points of her face to add a little warmth, without making her look too “innocent”.

 

THE DETAILS

  1. Every villain (or villainess) needs a bold brow. Kassy already had a great shape going, and I played up her arches with a dark brow powder to match her black wig. I always set the brows with a wax or gel to keep any rogue hairs in place.
  2. From the moment I found out Kassy was playing Captain Hook, I knew we had to dress her up in a red lip. I chose a matte shade that was a little on the warmer side to tie in with the bronzer. I started with a lip primer to keep the colour in place. I then defined her perfect lip shape with a liner and buffed it out using a lip brush so it wouldn’t appear too harsh. I finished with the lipstick to give her a saturated, vampy pout.
  3. To give Captain Hook a glamorous twist, we added some “Face Lace” to one eye in place of an eye patch. I trimmed the decal to suit Kassy’s eye shape and adhered it using a bit of clear eyelash glue.
  4. Glam makeup just isn’t glam enough without false lashes. To finish off Kassy’s look, we added a dramatic pair that weren’t too flared out at the ends. The shape of the lash should enhance, rather than distract from the eye look.

I always finish my makeup off with a generous spritz of finishing spray to keep the look in place all night! With a little compact powder in her “treasure chest” to touch up throughout the night, and of course, her signature red lipstick, this pirate was ready to party!

 

Queen Of Hearts Halloween Makeup Tutorial

As soon as Erin announced the characters we would all be portraying this Halloween, my head started filling with makeup ideas. Although Alice in Wonderland’s ‘Queen of Hearts’ may be a little evil, she has seriously cool makeup. I couldn’t wait to create something for Sue’s character that was regal, wonderful and out of the box. Erin and Sue came up with the brilliant idea of a Geisha inspired makeup design for the Queen of Hearts’ photoshoot. Here’s how I executed this look, incorporating Asian-inspired glamour and the whimsical world of Alice in Wonderland.

THE EYES

  1. No matter what look I’m going for, from the most natural, to the most daring, I always start with an eyeshadow primer. I patted the primer all over the lids and under the eyes to keep shadow from creasing or fading.
  2. To set the stage for Sue’s dramatic winged liner, and to blend in with the Queen of Heart’s ultra-pale complexion, I covered the entire lid with white. To ensure even colour saturation, I then used a matte white eyeshadow pencil from the lash line all the way up to the brow bone and smoothed out the product with a synthetic eyeshadow brush. I packed a matte white eyeshadow over the pencil to set it using a patting motion with a flat eyeshadow brush.
  3. When creating a winged liner look, I first mark the wing looking straight ahead – angling from the outer corner of the lash line to the tail of the brow. Before connecting the wing to the lash line, I make the same mark on the other eye to ensure symmetry. The Queen of Hearts regal elegance inspired me to create an exaggerated swoop with Sue’s liner, creating a dramatic shape. I also dragged the inner corner of the eye liner to a point to elongate the eye. The key with bold liner is symmetry, but don’t stress too much! No one will notice little liner imperfections once this gorgeous look is complete!

 

THE FACE

This Geisha inspired Queen of Hearts look called for a milky, porcelain complexion.

  1. To ensure smooth application, I first prepped Sue’s skin with a moisturizer and followed with a hydrating primer.
  2. I mixed a white cream makeup [Makeup Forever 12 Flash Color Case in the color White 010] with a very fair coloured foundation and applied it using a sponge. I took special care to achieve opaque coverage under the eyes and patted the colour over the lips as well.
  3. Cream makeup has a tendency to move around on the skin so I pressed a translucent setting powder over top of the makeup to keep it in place. When setting makeup, I am careful to roll the brush rather than sweep, so as not to remove the foundation I just applied.

 

THE CONTOUR

Sue’s character really started to take shape once we sculpted the face with the Queen of Heart’s signature red shade.

  1. I started by contouring with a true red matte eyeshadow, right under Sue’s natural cheekbone. I started at the hairline at the top of her ear and blended the contour on an angle towards the outer corner of her mouth.
  2. To soften the contour, I swept the colour upward from under the cheekbone using a clean brush. I also brought the striking red shade around the forehead, starting way back in the hairline and blending on an angle towards the center of the face.
  3. I then added a darker red matte shadow to the hollows of the cheeks and border of the hairline with a detail brush for added dimension and interest. Remember that the area of the face you touch first with your brush will have the most concentration of pigment! That’s why I like to start in the hairline and diffuse the colour as I work towards the center of the face.

 

THE LIPS

In true Geisha style, we focused the lip colour in the center of the lips, but with a twist! It was Sue’s idea to complete the look with a heart shaped lip design, tying the whole makeup look together.

  1. I rounded out her cupid’s bow with a red lip pencil to create the top of the heart, and kept the bottom point inside the natural lip line in order to maintain the shape.
  2. I filled in the shape using a matte red lipstick that was neither too orange, nor too blue. To keep the lines crisp, you can use some white cream makeup to sharpen up your shape.
  3. Lastly, I set the lip design with a little translucent powder to keep it in place!

 

To finish off the Queen of Heart’s dazzling makeup design, I lightly filled in Sue’s brows with a powder to frame the eyes. I always love to apply false lashes as a finishing touch for added drama and glamour!

If you’re headed off to an all-night Halloween party, I recommend using a setting spray to seal your makeup look for maximum wear. Don’t forget to carry your lipstick and eyelash glue with you for touch-ups, and you’re ready to go!