I think all movie Villains have some serious makeup merit, however, I’ve always held Ursula’s fierce face in high regard. Her character was inspired by the infamous 80’s drag queen, Divine, and I couldn’t resist the chance to experiment with one of my favourite makeup styles. If I may offer a word of caution to those who may have never tried it; drag makeup is extremely involved and time consuming. All hail the queens supreme who spend hours doing up their drag-a-licious looks on the regular!
Although this makeup could absolutely be simplified, I really wanted to pay homage to Ursula’s over-the-top character with makeup that was just that. For those pressed for time, I would suggest focusing on one feature, like the eyes or contour, to bring your Ursula character to life in only a moment or two.
First things first, even the most blessed among us don’t naturally grow arches like Ursula’s. I COULD write a lengthy tutorial on how to block out your brows, or I could just direct you to this hilarious, yet informative YouTube video – the very same one I watched the first time I tried this difficult-to-master technique. Blocking out your brows can be a great “FX” addition to many Halloween costumes, and some key things to remember are:
- Use lots of glue. Don’t be shy. And get the purple kind.
- It doesn’t matter how thick your brows are. You can do this. Very hairy men do this. It just takes time.
- Patience is a virtue. It usually takes me at least 20 minutes to do this step. It is essential for the glue to dry completely between layers.
- Brush the brow hairs in the direction that they grow, as opposed to brushing them all upwards.
- Once your brow hairs are glued down, it’s a good idea to use an orange colour corrector before trying to cover them. This is great for colour- correcting any type of facial hair, as it cancels out any bluish- black tones.
- Use a pan stick/ pan-cake makeup, or the thickest you have, to cover the area. I used Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer and patted it over the brow area for the most opaque result.
Don’t forget to set the area with a translucent powder before moving on to the next step!
When creating an eye look for drag makeup, keep in mind that you’re trying to create a completely different eye shape, and it’s a dramatic one! Drag makeup is all about manipulating your face shape and becoming a character. For this look, I created a new “crease” and “lid” using cream products. By blocking out the brows, we’ve created lots of space for Ursula’s characteristic extreme eyeshadow.
- To define a new crease that was similar to Ursula’s fierce, queenly eye shape, I mixed colours from the Make
Up Forever 12 Flash Colour Case to create a deep purple shade. I used the creamy colour to draw a swooping shape that started at the top of the nasal bridge.
- From there, I faded the colour upwards with synthetic brushes in a gradient from deep purple to white. I took the colour fairly high onto the forehead, stopping where I planned to create a new pair of eyebrows later on. I used cream colour for this and set it afterwards with eyeshadow.
- I used a white shadow pencil to map out the new lid space, stopping at my natural crease. I pressed an iridescent white shadow over top to add shimmer.
- I then filled in my mobile lid completely with black cream shadow to look like liner, effectively defining three new planes of the eye. I extended the black onto the temple to create an elongated winged shape, mirroring the swoop I created earlier in the “crease”. I set this with a black eyeshadow to keep the cream colour from transferring onto the white shadow above.
- I dragged the black cream colour down from the corner of my top lash line to open up the inner corner of my eye. From the point of the inner corner, I carried the cream product about a third of the way under my eye before joining it up with my natural lash line. I then filled this space in with white to create a new “inner corner” and the illusion of a larger eye.
- I lined the rest of the lower lash line with a black liner and connected it to the outside corner of the wing. I used a deep plum shadow to smoke out the lower lash line, building up a fairly thick saturation of colour under the eye.
Though the eyes played a major role in this look, the key to drag makeup is the extreme contour. I also used the contour step to tie more purple into the look without painting my entire face.
- I used a cream foundation base in my natural colour all over the face before applying cream contour.
- I then highlighted the area under my eyes, through the center of my face and on top of my cheek bones with the white shade in the Make Up Forever 12 Flash Colour Case.
- I used the “baking technique” to make these areas stand out even more by pressing an excessive amount of translucent powder into the cream makeup and dusting it away later on.
- I contoured my cheeks by mixing Flash Colours to create a purple shade. Typically, when I contour for drag makeup, I create a rounder shape and bring the colour closer to the mouth to emphasize a pouty lip. Ursula has a fuller face, so I didn’t want to sculpt away volume in my cheeks, while still accentuating the cheekbone.
- I blended the cheek contour upwards into the highlight shade, but left a crisp line along the bottom. Drag makeup is a form of theater makeup. As such, you want to avoid blending away the definition you’ve created.
- I contoured the bridge of my nose with a thin brush to create a slim shape and rounded tip. I also contoured the hairline and jawline, and brought some of the purple colour down onto the neck.
- I set the contoured areas with a purple eyeshadow to keep the product in place, and finished off the highlight with a touch of iridescent powder.
- I wanted to create a voluptuous pout for this makeup, so I over drew my lips outside the natural lip line using a dark purple eyeliner. To create an ombre effect, I filled in the entire lip with the eyeliner. I then added a lighter berry lipstick just to the center, using a lip brush to blend the two shades just at the edges.
Rather than go for the pointed high arches, I chose to match my brow shape to my “Film Noir”- esque wig. I went for a 1920s style rounded shape, angling the brows downwards in the front for a sinister look. I kept the brows slim and precise using a black liquid liner pen.
- For truly extravagant glamour, I wore a pair of plush feathery lashes from Shu Umera. I also added a pair of spiky bottom lashes to my lower lash line for maximum drama.
Drag style makeup involves many layers of cream product, so setting with a powder is key for maximum wear. When doing makeup for an occasion or event, I use a “setting sandwich technique”. I mist a generous amount of setting spray over the makeup and wait for it to dry completely. Then I powder over top of the setting spray with a translucent powder, and mist the makeup a second time to lock it in place. Try this budge proof technique for Halloween makeup that won’t move until YOU decide to take it off! Happy Haunting!