I was really excited to create a “pretty pirate” look for Kassy when I found out which character she would be portraying. I hear a lot of repeat requests when it comes to Halloween makeup, but I can’t say that a glamorous Captain Hook is one of them. Because this character goes against the grain, so to speak, I wanted to challenge some makeup myths as well. Everyone has heard that they shouldn’t wear a dramatic eye and a dramatic lip together, and who better than a pirate to break the age old makeup rule?
I know black eyeshadow can be intimidating, but Halloween is not the time to be shy! Captain Hook has some serious attitude, and I wanted her smoky eye to be dark and hazy.
- As always, I started with an eyeshadow primer from lashline to browbone to keep the eyeshadow in place. Because I was working with a creamier base, I expected some creasing, but I actually think this adds to the grungy and smoky effect.
- I laid down a black Kajal liner as a base for the smoky eye. I chose the YSL Couture Kajal liner because it has a fat tip and is so easy to blend. I used the side of the pencil to get maximum coverage from Kassy’s lash line to her crease, and softly blended the colour upwards onto her orbital bone.
- I also carried the liner under the lower lash line, all the way into the inner corner and added it into the top and bottom waterline for extra blackness. I buffed the liner out with a precision smudge brush to create a round shape. It’s okay if your liner isn’t perfectly straight, that’s what a smoky eye is all about. You want the edges to be smudgy and hazy.
- To keep the eyes blended and beautiful, I used my favourite trick. I took a little bit of a warm coloured bronzer on my blending brush and swept it through the crease and under the eye in a circular motion, creating a halo effect. This not only helps break up the black, but also creates a more cohesive look by warming up this seriously smoky eye.
- I patted the blackest black shadow I know of, Saucebox “Black Widow” eyeshadow, on top of the eye with the bristles of my brush pointing downwards. This technique prevents fall out and ensures maximum colour payoff.
- After doing one last sweep with a clean blending brush to ensure any harsh lines were buffed away, I finished the lashes with a coat of super- black mascara.
I have to say, when it comes to complexion, I’m a full-coverage kind of gal. But as a makeup artist, I know that airbrush foundation photographs best.
- I always prep the skin with a moisturizer before applying any foundation. Kassy was a little on the drier side, so I made sure to really work the product into the skin, and even used a few drops of a beauty oil to help the skincare absorb.
- I followed the moisturizer with a hydrating primer and let it soak in for a full minute.
- Because the coverage of airbrush makeup is more lightweight, I like to use a concealer first in any areas that require additional coverage. I used a brightener under the eyes to colour correct any darkness, and a tiny bit of a cream concealer around the nose to hide redness.
- Many women require the most coverage in the center of the face, so that’s where I start with the airbrush. I hold the machine at arm’s length from my client and spray in circular motions until desired coverage is achieved.
- I always finish with a translucent setting powder to prolong the wear of the makeup and minimize any texture.
Captain Hook doesn’t strike me as a modest character, so I skipped blush on Kassy to give her a more rebellious look. We focused on contour to give her face shape and definition.
- I used a cool toned contour powder to mimic the look of a shadow. To enhance Kassy’s cheekbones, I started at the top of her ear and blended the colour towards the corner of her mouth. I always start way back in the hairline with my brush to ensure a diffused look.
- I also took the contour colour around the hairline on the forehead, and just at the edges of Kassy’s jawline to define her bone structure. When I contour these areas, I like to use a fluffier brush for a more transparent application of product.
- I sharpened up my cheekbone contour by dusting a matte highlight powder along the bottom edge of the contour. After letting it set for a moment or two, I dust away any excess to reveal a seriously sharp, dramatic cheek bone.
- On a kabuki brush, I picked up a little of the same bronzer shade I used to warm up Kassy’s smoky eye. I dusted the bronzer on the high points of her face to add a little warmth, without making her look too “innocent”.
- Every villain (or villainess) needs a bold brow. Kassy already had a great shape going, and I played up her arches with a dark brow powder to match her black wig. I always set the brows with a wax or gel to keep any rogue hairs in place.
- From the moment I found out Kassy was playing Captain Hook, I knew we had to dress her up in a red lip. I chose a matte shade that was a little on the warmer side to tie in with the bronzer. I started with a lip primer to keep the colour in place. I then defined her perfect lip shape with a liner and buffed it out using a lip brush so it wouldn’t appear too harsh. I finished with the lipstick to give her a saturated, vampy pout.
- To give Captain Hook a glamorous twist, we added some “Face Lace” to one eye in place of an eye patch. I trimmed the decal to suit Kassy’s eye shape and adhered it using a bit of clear eyelash glue.
- Glam makeup just isn’t glam enough without false lashes. To finish off Kassy’s look, we added a dramatic pair that weren’t too flared out at the ends. The shape of the lash should enhance, rather than distract from the eye look.
I always finish my makeup off with a generous spritz of finishing spray to keep the look in place all night! With a little compact powder in her “treasure chest” to touch up throughout the night, and of course, her signature red lipstick, this pirate was ready to party!